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fountain-pen-ink-alchemist

面向钢笔墨水调配的本地计算工具:按加水量、甘油比例和湿度估算体积、颜色与干燥时间,支持批次记录到 ink_log.json、墨水类型对比、滴与毫升及笔尖填充/页数换算,并提供颜料/闪粉堵塞与丙烯/印度墨水安全规则。

voronindenis5
voronindenis5
热度 16.02
最近更新 2026-10-18 23:38:30
分类:生活依赖:代码执行 / 读写文件应用场景:食谱 / 工作流 / 推荐 / 概念解释 ...

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Metadata
name
fountain-pen-ink-alchemist
description
Use when mixing, diluting, or crafting fountain pen inks — dilution math (add-water % → new volume, concentration shift, lighter shade), dry-time estimates adjusted for glycerin and humidity, batch logging to a reusable ink_log.json with ratios and notes, recipe comparison tables (dry time, flow, wash resistance, nib safety), and drops↔ml plus converter-fill/page conversions by nib width — including why DIY water+dye ink molds without a biocide, why pigment/shimmer inks clog EF/F nibs while dyes are safe, and the absolute rule that acrylic and India inks never go in a fountain pen.
version
1.0.0
author
Denis Voronin
license
MIT
tags
["fountain-pens","ink","mixing","dilution","calligraphy","stationery","diy","dry-time"]

Fountain Pen Ink Alchemist

A 60 ml bottle of ink lasts most people two years. So when a pen skips, an ink feathers, or a favorite shade is discontinued, the fix isn't buying more ink — it's adjusting what you have: a measured splash of distilled water, a drop of glycerin, a logged ratio you can reproduce (or never repeat). The failure modes are all un-measured: too much water turns the ink watery-pale, too much glycerin smears for an hour, and a homemade dye mix grows mold in the feed within a fortnight. This skill does the arithmetic and keeps the rules (pigment ≠ dye, acrylic = pen death) in front of you at the moment of mixing.

When to Use

  • Ink too dry / pen skips → compute the right dilution instead of pouring blind (5-25% water is the useful band; 30%+ is ruined)
  • Estimating how a dilution or glycerin addition changes dry time on YOUR paper at YOUR humidity
  • Logging every custom batch (components, ratio, verdict) so a happy accident is reproducible — ink_log.json is the lab notebook
  • Deciding between ink classes for a pen: dye vs iron-gall vs pigment vs shimmer — nib width drives the answer
  • Converting recipe drops to ml and ml to fills/pages for a given nib
  • Tempted by acrylic/India/calligraphy inks in a fountain pen — stop, read the safety section, use a dip pen instead

Not for: rehydrating dried-out bottles of unknown provenance, vintage ink restoration chemistry, or anything involving solvents — those need dedicated references.

The Method

# The core move: dilute 60 ml by 15% and see everything that changes
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py mix --target-ml 60 --add-water-pct 15

# With the dry-time modifiers: 3% glycerin, humid summer office
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py mix --target-ml 60 --add-water-pct 10 \
    --glycerin-pct 3 --rh 70

# Log the batch you just made (ratios + verdict notes)
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py batch add --name "misty ku-jaku" \
    --components "ku-jaku 50ml, distilled water 10ml" --ratio "5:1" \
    --notes "wet flow, dry EF finally happy; shade one step lighter"
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py batch list

# Compare two ink classes before committing a pen to one
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py compare shimmer pigment
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py compare --list

# Recipe math: drops in the recipe, ml in your pipette
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py convert --drops 20 --nib f
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py convert --ml 30 --drop-ml 0.05
python3 scripts/ink_alchemy.py convert --nib-table

Dilution Quick Reference

Added water Color Flow Dry time Verdict
5% ~same slightly wetter +4% subtle flow fix
10% 1 shade lighter wetter +9% the sweet spot
15% noticeably lighter wet +14% dry pens rejoice
25% pale very wet +22% feathering risk on cheap paper
30%+ washed out sloppy +27%+ start over; log the failure

Dry time ≈ base × (volume ratio)^0.85 × 1.18^(glycerin %) × 2^((RH−50)/40). Doubling from 50% to 90% humidity roughly doubles dry time — a mix that behaved in winter smears all August.

Ink Class Rules (the part that saves pens)

Class Particle? Nibs Waterproof Upkeep
Dye (standard FP ink) no — dissolved all, incl. EF no flush 4-6 wk
Iron gall no steel short-term, gold safer after oxidation use weekly, flush monthly
Pigment YES — suspended F/M+ with weekly flush yes never let dry in pen
Shimmer YES — mica flakes BROAD/stub only no swirl, never shake
Acrylic / India binder + shellac NONE — dip pen only yes destroys feeds

The mechanism matters: dye molecules stay dissolved and flow through a 0.2 mm EF slit; pigment and mica are solids that settle and accrete in the feed channel and under the nib tines. A clogged feed means disassembly or a parts sink — an hour of surgery to save 15 minutes of flushing.

Common Pitfalls

  1. Tap water instead of distilled. Minerals crust the nib tipping and feed, and tap microbes jump-start mold. Distilled only.
  2. Shaking a shimmer bottle. Shaking whips in air bubbles that cause hard starts; swirl gently, bottle vertical.
  3. Pigment ink left in an unused pen. Water evaporates through the cap in weeks; the solids stay and cement the feed. Flush any pen that sits for more than a week.
  4. Glycerin as a universal flow agent. It's a humectant — past ~5% it keeps the line wet enough to smear on coated paper for an hour. 1-3% is the working range.
  5. Homemade dye ink with no biocide. Water + dye + no preservative is a microbial culture; mold hyphae physically clog the feed. If it smells sweet or earthy, discard the batch and flush the pen.
  6. "Just a little" acrylic or India ink. There is no little. Shellac and acrylic binder dry insoluble inside the feed; the pen is often not recoverable. Dip pens exist for these inks.
  7. Mixing in the pen instead of a vial. You can't measure, can't log, and can't undo. Always mix in a clean vial, then fill.

Verification Checklist

  • Distilled water used (not tap, not filtered)
  • Dilution computed with mix — volume, ml to add, new total recorded
  • Mix made in a clean vial, not inside the pen
  • Swab/scratch test on the actual target paper, both wet and dry
  • Batch logged: components, ratio, date, verdict notes
  • Pen flushed before filling and scheduled for flush (4-6 wk dye, weekly pigment/shimmer)
  • No acrylic/India/solvent ink ever contacted the fountain pen
  • Shimmer only in broad/stub; swirl not shake

Maintenance Cadence (flush before it's a problem)

Ink in pen Flush every Why
Dye, daily writer 4-6 weeks dye films slowly; also refreshes feed
Dye, sitting capped 2-3 weeks water evaporates through the cap
Pigment 1 week, no exceptions solids cement the feed as water leaves
Shimmer 1 week + swirl before each fill mica settles flat in the converter
Iron gall after each use acid + steel nib = corrosion while stored
Any mix >25% water 2 weeks halved biocide load, mold risk

A pen that writes fine is not evidence the feed is clean — it's evidence it's clean today. Flushing is 60 seconds under the tap followed by a converter of clear water; disassembly is an hour with a parts sink. The cadence table is the whole trick.

References

  • references/ink-craft.md — the deep version: water-ink ratio effects, drying physics (glycerin, surfactants, humidity), why inks mold and preservative reasoning, dye vs pigment mechanics, pH, classic recipes, the batch log schema, and the full safety rules.